Understand & Use of Hyaluronic Acid Action

Hyaluronsäure unter dem Mikroskop

Hyaluronic acid: Effect optimises your skin care

Hyaluronic acid has been a popular ingredient in creams for body and face for years. In many serums it is considered a highly concentrated wonder weapon against dry skin. The intense moisturising effect of hyaluronic acid also brings an anti-ageing effect. However, there are differences between the types of hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid in the body: Where does it occur?

Hyaluronic acid (also: hyaluronan) is an essential component of many of the most important tissue structures in the body. It is found in particular here

  • in the skin
  • in connective tissue
  • in cartilage
  • in the vitreous body of the eye
  • in the intervertebral discs
  • in the cartilage (e.g. in the knees)
  • in the synovial fluid, the synovia

The synovial fluid acts as a lubricant in the joints and enables the joint surfaces in the knees, for example, to glide smoothly during movement. A loss of hyaluronic acid can lead to arthrosis, the joint surfaces then rub against each other. The joint can no longer function smoothly.

Hyaluronic acid content in the body decreases – and that has consequences

Your body produces up to 5 grams of hyaluronic acid every day. This amount is needed for the formation of new cells in the body. However, as we age, the amount of hyaluronic acid in our tissues decreases, and at the same time the activity of the hyaluronidase enzyme increases. This enzyme breaks down the hyaluronic acid in our tissue.

The ageing processes that go hand in hand with this also become visible and noticeable for you. The decreasing hyaluronic acid content is noticeable like this:

More and more wrinkles form on your face, especially around your eyes and lips.
Your skin loses elasticity.
Your intervertebral discs cause you increasing problems.

The latter happens because the amount of hyaluron in the intervertebral discs is reduced. The result: they lose their important shock-absorbing function in the back.

Hyaluronic acid structure: What does it consist of?

You now know what functions and effects hyaluronic acid has in your body. Now you are probably wondering how long it has been known to us in its diversity and what it is made of.

Hyaluronic acid was discovered by Karl Meyer, a German physician, in 1930. At that time, he examined the vitreous body of the eye, which is where the name comes from. It is made up of “hyalos” (ancient Greek for glass) and uronic acids.

Hyaluronic acid is, simply explained, a glycosaminoglycan, a component of the extracellular matrix, and is formed in the cell membranes. It consists of linear polysaccharide chains. These contribute its most important property: Hyaluronic acid can bind large amounts of water.

Taking the vitreous body in the eye as an example, this means: It consists of 2 percent hyaluron and 98 percent water. Hyaluronic acid can therefore bind up to 20 times its own weight in water.

Types of hyaluronic acid: non-cross-linked vs. cross-linked hyaluronic acid

However, hyaluron does not only occur naturally in the body, but can also be produced artificially. Nowadays, hyaluronic acid is produced from biofermentation. No animal products are used in this process, which is why hyaluronic acid can be considered vegan.

The hyaluronic acid produced in this process comes in different structures. Each of these types of hyaluronic acid has a different spectrum of action in cosmetic skin care as well as in medical applications.

Graphik zu Hyaluronsäure
Scheme of Non-cross linked Hyaluronic Acid

Uncross-linked hyaluronic acid in cosmetics

Long-chain and short-chain hyaluron are used in cosmetics. Although these two types of hyaluronic acid differ in their molecular mass, they are both uncrosslinked hyaluronic acids.

Long-chain hyaluron:

This heavy, high molecular weight form of hyaluron cannot pass through the skin barrier. It remains on the skin, forms a fine protective shield against drying out and stores the skin’s natural moisture.

Short-chain hyaluron:

This type of hyaluron has a low molecular mass and can therefore also pass through the skin’s barrier layer. It can place itself in the skin and connective tissue and thus imitate the effect of natural hyaluronic acid.

This means that it stores water, among other things, thus optimising the moisture content in the skin. The skin thus appears firmer and fresher, gaining new elasticity. The depth of wrinkles will become flatter. This is why one also speaks of an anti-aging effect of hyaluronic acid.

Since the short-chain form is also non-cross-linked hyaluron, it is broken down again by the body after some time. However, there is also good news, because with regular application of creams containing hyaluronic acid, the desired effect of hyaluronic acid can be maintained.

Cross-linked hyaluronic acid in human and veterinary medicine

In medical applications, cross-linked hyaluronic acid is often injected into large joints as a “lubricant”, not only in human medicine but also in veterinary medicine, for example in horses. Thanks to the higher content of hyaluronic acid, the synovial fluid has improved gliding properties. This reduces pain in the knees caused by arthrosis, for example.

In recent years, however, another application of cross-linked hyaluronic acid has become (even) better known – namely as anti-wrinkle therapy in aesthetic medicine. Cross-linked hyaluronic acid is injected specifically into wrinkles. It can be injected into deeper layers of the skin, for example in these applications:

  • to compensate for sunken facial structures such as sunken cheeks
  • for the typical marionette wrinkles, nowadays also called “Merkel wrinkles”

Cross-linked hyaluronic acid: proven effect in wrinkle injections

Cross-linked hyaluronic acid comes in gel form and is cross-linked in a special procedure. In the so-called Nasha technology, the structure of the hyaluronic acid becomes particularly stable and a particularly pure hyaluron is produced.

The higher the degree of cross-linking of the hyaluronic acid, the more stable it is. It is thus longer lasting in the tissue and also has the ability to store even more water with a higher degree of cross-linking. Not every type of hyaluronic acid is equally suitable for treating all parts of the face.

Hyaluronic acid products that are especially suitable for cheek injections have the highest degree of cross-linking in their structure.
For lip filling, a filler specially suited for the lips is usually used. The aim of the injections is to achieve a natural result.

Seria Cutaneous – a care line with pharmaceutical-grade hyaluronic acid

The face and body care Seria Cutaneous by BEAUTÉ OMAR Dr. Mariam Omar Aesthetics is a natural cosmetic that also contains hyaluronic acid. During development, care was taken to use low and high molecular hyaluronic acid. It can also pass through the deep subcutis (dermis) into the connective tissue and is available in pharmaceutical quality.

The product family of BEAUTÉ OMAR care products was specially developed for the needs of the skin after medical interventions. To optimally support the healing process, it is particularly important to provide the skin with sufficient moisture. The use of pure water, which is normally used for medical products, makes it possible to apply the products to closed wounds.

The use of the modern stylish airless dispenser makes the Surgi Boost Face Cream not only very pure, but also presentable for every handbag. The Surgi Boost Advanced Body Cream looks great in your bathroom. The dispenser is washable and reusable. Give your skin beautiful moments with your BEAUTÉ care experience.